Saturday, October 19, 2013

Seeing good in the bad

Arabic is a frustratingly difficult language. Something I didn't think about four years ago when I decided I wanted to learn how to read and write those squiggly letters. After struggling through four years of literary Arabic in a classroom, I decided I needed to go to an Arabic speaking country and give it one last shot. Not only that, but I needed to experience first hand Arab culture, not just through relentless reading of Al-Kitab texts that dated back to the year 600 BC, but in real life. That’s what led to me Amman, Jordan this past summer to study Arabic.

After speaking with one student in my class she suggested I do a six week program that she did called Afkar Academy. I thought to myself, perfect, I can go to Jordan for six weeks, visit my boyfriend in Israel for two weeks and still be back in plenty of time to make it to my brother’s wedding in Ithaca, New York. Everything was working out perfectly and my boyfriend Dan and I had even planned trips to DC and New York together prior to leaving to our respective countries for the summer. As I was saying goodbye to my dad and was about to get in the car for the airport he asked, “So do you have your passport?” My heart dropped, I ran up to my room to search for my passport and couldn't find it anywhere. I frantically called Lucia, my old roommate, I must have left it there, but she couldn't find it. I would have to go to DC and hope my parents or Lucia were able to come up with my passport, but shortly after I arrived they both reported back that they couldn't find it anywhere. I was supposed to board a plane in less than two weeks to go to Jordan and I didn't have my passport, crap!

Later that evening when Dan and I were situated in our friend’s apartment in DC I received an e-mail. It read:

Dear Ms. Levy,
I regret to inform you due to lack of enrollment Yarmouk University is no longer able to sponsor the Afkar Academy this summer.
Best Regards,
Afkar Academy

I had been preparing for this trip to Jordan for over six months, my expectations for the summer and what that meant for my relationship were centered around me doing this program in Jordan. I could not wrap my head around what just happened. I immediately emailed the Afkar Academy asking them to help me find another program as well as my study abroad office. In addition, I sent five emails out to various programs in Jordan, Morocco, and Egypt to see if I could enroll. One simple issue of losing my passport turned into the potential loss of a life changing summer. I was devastated, but determined to find a way to make it work. I refused to stay in Champaign for the summer and learn Arabic from a book. After a few days, Afkar Academy called me and discussed the opportunity to study independently with a professor from the University of Jordan in Amman. He said me and another girl would be apart of the program and we would share a studio apartment. I was relieved; I could not believe how that had actually worked out. It wasn’t until two days before I boarded the plane that I was informed the other girl who was supposed to attend the program with me was unable to transfer her scholarship and it would be just me in Jordan this summer as part of the Afkar Academy.

I was prepared for the challenge of being an American woman in an Arab country and even hiding my Jewish identity that so many Jordanians despised, but I was in no way prepared to do this alone, with no built in network of American friends. I was scared, but I knew that this was my last opportunity to study in Jordan on a scholarship like the one I received and I was determined to make it work.


June 4, I departed on a plane to Amman as planned and began a very challenging yet rewarding summer. I had an experience that I know I wouldn't have had if I went on an organized program, yet I had enough structure to have a small support group to get by.  While the first week in Jordan was difficult socially, I entrenched myself in my studies and was able to grasp the basics of colloquial Arabic very quickly. Little did I know how important this would be in shaping the rest of my time in Jordan. As I became conversational, my teacher required me to speak with Jordanian students for four hours a day, five days a week, writing down the words I did not understand. Not only was I able to quickly learn Arabic, but I made Jordanian friends, learned about culture, politics and major challenges that Jordan faces. 

While initially I planned my trip to Jordan to primarily improve my Arabic, I realized that the real benefits came from the relationships I built, the culture I participated in, and the lifestyle I came to love and understand. Though it seemingly started out as a train wreck, the challenge only made the experience that much more meaningful and rewarding.